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An engine hoist is not strictly a transmission tool, but the moment you are doing an engine-and-trans-out job, a clutch on a RWD car, or lifting a big-block off a stand, you need one. The mistake people make is buying on the headline rating ("2 ton!") and ignoring the load chart printed on the boom. That rating only holds with the boom fully retracted. Extend it to reach over a fender and your real capacity drops by more than half.
Three numbers decide which hoist you buy: rated capacity at full boom extension, maximum lift height, and leg length versus your garage door. Get those right and almost any name-brand 2-ton folding crane will serve you for decades.
Read the Load Chart, Not the Sticker
Every folding shop crane has a boom that telescopes out in four positions. The capacity at each position is stamped or stickered on the boom. A typical 2-ton (4,000 lb) crane looks like this:
| Boom Position | Rated Capacity | Typical Reach |
|---|---|---|
| Position 1 (retracted) | 4,000 lb | Closest to mast |
| Position 2 | 3,000 lb | Short reach |
| Position 3 | 2,000 lb | Medium reach |
| Position 4 (extended) | 1,000 lb | Full reach |
A small-block with a transmission bolted on is 600 to 750 lbs. A big-block alone is 650 to 700 lbs. You will almost always be lifting at position 2 or 3 to clear the radiator support, so do not buy a 1-ton crane expecting to pull a V8 over the core support. Buy the 2-ton and lift in the middle of its range, where it is happiest.
The Picks
Pittsburgh / Harbor Freight 2-Ton Foldable — Best Value
This is the crane in most home garages, and for good reason: it is under $250 on sale, folds flat to hang on a wall, and the 2-ton rating gives you real margin for engine-plus-trans pulls. The ram is the weak point on cheap cranes; the HF unit ships with an 8-ton bottle-style ram that holds pressure better than the no-name versions. Bleed the ram before first use and check the swivel-caster bolts are torqued. The included load leveler is mediocre — buy a real one separately.
Browse 2-ton foldable engine hoists
Torin Big Red 2-Ton Folding Shop Crane — Reliable Name Brand
Torin (Big Red) makes the foldable 2-ton crane that a lot of the rebranded units are based on. Build quality is a notch above bargain-bin, the casters are better, and replacement rams and seals are easy to source. Folds for storage. If you want a known brand with parts support and you are not in a hurry to save the last $40, this is the safe buy.
Check Torin Big Red 2-Ton
OTC / Pro-Lift Heavy-Duty — If You Lift Often
If you are a serious hobbyist building engines regularly, step up to a heavier-gauge crane with a wide front leg span and an air/hydraulic ram. These cost more and weigh more, but the bigger leg spread means you can roll over a wider stance and the air-assist ram saves your forearm on long lifts. Overkill for a once-a-year clutch job; the right call if the hoist comes out monthly.
Browse heavy-duty engine hoists
Load Leveler — Buy One Separately
A load leveler is the geared bracket between the chain and the engine that lets you tilt the engine fore-and-aft while it hangs. This is how you walk a transmission tailshaft back off the dowels, or angle a motor to clear the firewall. The cheap stamped levelers flex; spend the extra few dollars on a forged 1,500-lb leveler. It is the single accessory that makes a hoist actually usable.
Check load levelers
Leg Spread vs Your Garage
The legs on a folding crane are roughly 48 to 52 inches long and the front legs splay out. Two things to measure before you buy: the legs must fit between the front wheels of your car so the crane can straddle the nose, and they must roll on whatever floor you have. Bare concrete is fine; a chipseal or gravel driveway will fight the small front casters. Most cranes use 3-inch casters up front. Swap to larger casters if your floor is rough.
Chains, Bolts, and Hardware
Do not hang an engine off random hardware-store chain. Use grade-70 or grade-80 lifting chain rated for the load, and bolt to the factory engine lift brackets or grade-8 bolts threaded into the heads at the correct depth. A bolt backed out two threads has a fraction of its rated strength. This is the part of the job where a $4 bolt failure ends with a cylinder head through your foot.
- Grade-8 bolts only for makeshift lift points, threaded full depth into the casting.
- Grade-70/80 chain, never proof-coil or trailer chain.
- Two lift points minimum, ideally on opposite corners of the engine.
- Never stand under or reach under a suspended load.
Engine's Out. Trans on the Bench. Now What?
Once the powertrain is on the floor, the rebuild starts. gearboxinsider.com stocks the rebuild kits, friction modules, solenoids, and seals for the common GM, Ford, and Dodge units. Same-day ship before 2pm Eastern, free shipping on every order.
Shop Gearbox Insider →FAQ
Can I pull just a transmission with an engine hoist?
You can, but a transmission jack is the better tool for a trans-only job because it supports the unit flat from below and lets you angle it onto the bell-housing dowels. A hoist shines when the engine and trans come out together as a unit, or for a RWD clutch job where you are dropping the whole driveline.
Do I need a 2-ton or is 1-ton enough?
For a bare 4-cylinder, a 1-ton works at short boom. For any V8, or engine-plus-transmission, buy the 2-ton so you have capacity at extended boom positions. The price difference is small and the margin is not.
Where do I store a folding crane?
That is the whole point of the folding design — it collapses to stand against a wall or lie flat under a workbench. Confirm your model folds before buying; the cheapest fixed-frame cranes do not.