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The TR6060 is Tremec's evolution of the T56. It showed up in cars like the Dodge Challenger and Viper, the fifth generation Camaro SS and ZL1, the Shelby GT500, the CTS-V and Corvette models. Compared with the older T56 it is generally credited with stronger gears and revised synchros, and it handles the torque of a modern supercharged V8 far better than a T5 or early T56 ever could.
That does not make it trouble-free. Owners report notchy shifts when cold, grinding 2nd and 3rd on cars that get driven hard, and a handful of electrical and hydraulic issues that get blamed on the gearbox. Here is how to sort them out.
What Actually Fails
| Symptom | Usual cause | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Notchy 2nd and 3rd when cold | Normal TR6060 behavior, or early synchro wear | If it smooths out warm, it is mostly fluid and design. If it grinds warm, it is synchros. |
| Grinds into 2nd or 3rd on fast shifts | Synchro ring and cone wear | Hard launches and power shifts accelerate it. |
| Forced from 1st to 4th at light throttle | Skip-shift (CAGS) solenoid working as designed | A fuel economy feature on many applications, not a failure. |
| Cannot get reverse, or reverse lockout sticks | Reverse lockout solenoid or wiring | Check the solenoid and connector before blaming the gearbox. |
| Pedal soft, sticks, or clutch will not release | Concentric slave cylinder or hydraulics | The slave is inside the bellhousing. A failure means pulling the transmission. |
| Whine that changes with gear | Bearing or gear wear | Note which gears are noisy before teardown. |
Notchy versus failing
Many TR6060s feel stiff into 2nd and 3rd for the first few minutes on a cold morning and fine once warm. That is common and not a reason to rebuild. What matters is grinding after warm-up, a block you cannot shift through, or a grind on fast shifts. Those point to worn synchros. Fluid choice affects cold feel, so use what your manufacturer calls for. Our synchro wear guide walks through the symptom side.
Skip-shift and reverse lockout
Plenty of TR6060 cars have a skip-shift feature that blocks 2nd and 3rd from 1st at light throttle and low speed, steering you to 4th. It is there for fuel economy ratings. It is also controlled by a solenoid, and many owners choose to disable it. Reverse lockout is a separate solenoid on many applications, and when it or its wiring fails you lose access to reverse. If you are dealing with a failed or problem lockout, we carry a billet reverse lockout solenoid delete kit for T56 and TR6060 units. Check your local rules and your application before deleting anything.
Slave cylinder
Most TR6060 cars use a concentric slave cylinder that rides on the input shaft retainer inside the bellhousing. When it leaks, you get a soft pedal, a clutch that will not release, and sometimes fluid at the bellhousing seam. There is no cheap fix; the transmission comes out. That is why most shops replace the slave anytime the clutch is done. For fifth gen Camaro, we carry the Camaro clutch slave cylinder bearing 24251196. Our concentric vs external slave guide covers the trade-offs.
Diagnose Before You Pull It
A TR6060 removal is a big job on most of these cars, with exhaust, driveshaft, crossmember and sometimes a torque tube in the way. Spend an hour on the easy checks first. Confirm the fluid level and type. Bleed the clutch and see if a grind goes away. Unplug and test the lockout solenoids. Shift it with the engine off and see if the shifter itself feels loose or binds. Drive it warm and cold and note exactly which gears grind, on upshift or downshift, and at what speed. A rebuilder who gets that list can quote far more accurately, and you avoid paying to pull a transmission that only needed a slave cylinder.
TR6060 Parts and Tools
A proper puller gets 5th and 6th gears off the shafts without damaging them, and a fresh clutch and slave belongs in every TR6060 removal.
T56/TR6060 Gear Puller → Camaro SS ClutchRebuild Notes From the Bench
- Use the right puller. The 5th and 6th gears are pressed on. A T56/TR6060 5th and 6th gear puller saves gears that a generic jaw puller can ruin.
- Synchro sets go in together. If 2nd and 3rd are worn, assume the rest are tired too. Replace the full set and the matching cones where needed.
- Inspect the shift forks and pads. Worn pads cause pop-out and missed gates after a rebuild that only did synchros.
- Check the shifter. Worn bushings in the shifter feel like internal notchiness. On Challengers, a heavier shifter handle like our TR6060 weighted shifter handle also changes feel.
What It Costs
| Job | Parts | Shop, installed |
|---|---|---|
| Fluid change with correct spec | $40-$100 | $120-$250 |
| Lockout solenoid diagnosis or replacement | $40-$200 | $150-$450 |
| Clutch and slave cylinder | $450-$1,200 | $1,400-$2,800 |
| Synchro rebuild | $500-$1,000 | $2,200-$3,600 |
| Rebuild with gears | $1,200-$2,500 | $3,000-$5,000 |
| New or reman TR6060 | $3,500-$5,500 | $4,500-$7,000 |
Ballpark ranges that vary with labor rate and what is found inside. Pulling the transmission is a big part of the shop number, so do the clutch, slave and rear seal at the same time. Browse our hard parts and tools, or our sister store CoreTransmissionParts.com.
FAQ
Is the TR6060 stronger than the T56?
Generally, yes. The TR6060 is the later evolution of the T56 design and is generally credited with stronger gears and revised synchros. The T56 Magnum is the aftermarket version built for higher torque; see our T56 Magnum vs TKX page for that comparison.
Why is my TR6060 notchy when cold?
Many TR6060s feel stiff into 2nd and 3rd until they warm up. If it smooths out warm, it is mostly normal behavior and fluid. If it grinds after warm-up or on fast shifts, the synchros are wearing.
What is the skip shift on a TR6060?
On many applications, a solenoid blocks 2nd and 3rd at light throttle and low speed when shifting from 1st, steering you to 4th. It exists for fuel economy ratings. It is a feature, not a failure.
How do I know if the slave cylinder is bad?
A soft or sticking pedal, a clutch that will not fully release, grinding into every gear, and sometimes fluid at the bellhousing seam. On concentric slave setups, replacing it means pulling the transmission.
Is a TR6060 worth rebuilding?
Yes, if the case is sound. Synchros, bearings and forks are all serviceable, and a rebuild costs well under a new unit. Only gear damage or case damage pushes it toward replacement.