Competition Clutch 1994-2005 Mazda Miata Stage 2 - Steelback Brass Plus Clutch Kit

If your 1994-2005 Miata 1.8 now slips in third when you roll into the throttle, or the stock clutch gave up after an intake, header and tune, the Competition Clutch 10045-2100 Stage 2 kit is the step up that still drives like a street car. It covers the NA 1.8 (1994-1997) and the NB (1999-2005) and replaces the pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing and pilot bushing in one box.

What the clutch kit does in a 1.8L Miata

The Miata uses a hydraulic, push-style clutch: the master cylinder on the firewall feeds the slave on the side of the bellhousing, the slave pushes the fork, and the fork drives the throwout bearing into the pressure plate fingers. Release the pedal and the diaphragm spring clamps the disc between the flywheel and the plate. On a car this light, almost every clutch problem shows up as either slip under load or a sloppy, inconsistent release.

Competition Clutch rates this Stage 2 kit at a 40-50% torque capacity increase over stock on the product description, while its Stage 2 family text quotes up to 80%. The specification table lists an organic, full-face disc, and the family copy describes Brass Plus friction on an alloy backing. We list both statements as the maker publishes them. Either way it is a full-face disc, not a puck, so engagement stays progressive enough for traffic.

Symptoms that point to a worn Miata clutch

• RPM climbs without road speed in third or fourth under full throttle (classic slip)
• Engagement point creeping higher on the pedal as the disc wears thin
• Chatter on takeoff, often from a glazed or oil-soaked disc or a heat-spotted flywheel
• Chirp or growl that changes when you touch the pedal (throwout bearing)
• Grinding into gear or hard shifts with the engine running, which can also be a tired slave or air in the line
• Burnt friction smell after a hill start or an autocross run

How to confirm the clutch is the problem

Do a simple load test: warm the car, put it in fourth around 2,500 rpm and floor it. If the tach jumps ahead of road speed, the disc is slipping. Before you order, rule out the hydraulics. A soft pedal, a pedal that sinks, or a release point that wanders usually means fluid or air, not friction material; see clutch engages high or low on the pedal. Our slipping diagnosis guide walks through separating real slip from a flare or a sensor issue, and clutch slipping symptoms and causes covers oil contamination from a leaking rear main or input seal.

Fitment

This listing is for the 1994-2005 Mazda Miata with the 1.8L engine. The maker lists it as the NA/NB 1.8L kit. It does not fit the 1990-1993 1.6L cars, which use a smaller clutch and a different flywheel, and it is not for the 2006-up NC 2.0L. If your car is a 2004-2005 Mazdaspeed turbo or has a swapped flywheel, confirm with us before buying. Not sure what you have? Send the year and VIN and we will check it. You can also browse the full clutch range in our rebuild kits and clutches category.

Install notes

• Resurface or replace the flywheel. A fresh steel face is what lets the new disc bed in evenly; the 13 lb steel flywheel 2-746-ST is the matching 1.8 part if yours is cracked or heat checked.
• Remove the old pilot bushing from the crank and fit the supplied one; center the disc with the included alignment tool before tightening the plate.
• Torque the pressure plate bolts gradually in a star pattern so the cover pulls down square.
• Use only a thin film of grease on the input shaft splines and fork pivot; Competition Clutch warns that excess grease can damage the disc and void the warranty.
• Bleed the system with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. If the lines are original, the Miata master and slave cylinder kit with steel line is worth doing while the transmission is out.
• Break-in: shift as often as possible for the first 500 miles and avoid hard launches. Our clutch break-in guide explains why.

Planning to add boost or track the car hard? The Stage 4 6-pad ceramic kit 10045-1620 holds more, but it engages much more abruptly than this Stage 2.

Will this Stage 2 kit fit my 1990-1993 Miata 1.6?

No. This kit is listed for the 1994-2005 Miata 1.8L. The early 1.6L cars use a different, smaller clutch and flywheel. Send your year and VIN if you are unsure what engine your car has.

Is it a daily-driver clutch?

Yes. It uses a full-face disc rather than pucks, so engagement is progressive. Expect a slightly firmer pedal than stock, which the maker describes as performance-oriented but street friendly.

What else should I replace with it?

Resurface or replace the flywheel, and inspect the rear main seal and input seal for leaks so oil does not ruin the new disc. If the hydraulics are original, a master and slave cylinder with a steel line is a sensible add-on. The kit already includes the throwout bearing, pilot bushing and alignment tool.

Is a flywheel included?

No. The maker's specification table lists throwout bearing, pilot bushing and alignment tool, with no flywheel. Use your resurfaced flywheel or a matching 1.8L steel flywheel.

What fluid does the clutch hydraulic system use?

The Miata clutch hydraulics share the brake fluid reservoir and use DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. Bleed the slave after install until the pedal is firm with no bubbles.

How do I break in the new clutch?

Competition Clutch says to shift as often as possible for the first 500 miles so the disc material beds into the flywheel and pressure plate. Avoid launches and long slips during that period.

• How to Diagnose Transmission Slipping
• Shift Flare vs. Slip: How to Tell Them Apart
• Automatic vs. Manual Transmission Repair Cost