Inner and outer wheel bearings, races and seal to service one side of a Dana 60 or Dana 50 front axle hub on 4x4 trucks with locking hubs.
If your older 3/4-ton or 1-ton 4x4 has a front wheel that growls at highway speed, a tire you can rock at 12 and 6 o'clock, or grease slung across the inside of the rim, the hub bearings are telling you they are done. This kit rebuilds one front hub on a Dana 60 or Dana 50 front axle with manual locking hubs. It is the Yukon Gear & Axle AK D60F set: inner and outer tapered roller wheel bearings, both bearing races, and the wheel seal, with a Timken-marked bearing visible in the kit photo. Buy one kit per side; most people order two and do both hubs on the same day.
On a locking-hub Dana 60, the wheel hub does not ride on a sealed unit bearing. It spins on two serviceable tapered roller bearings that sit on the steering knuckle spindle: a large inner bearing near the knuckle and a smaller outer bearing near the locking hub. Each bearing runs against a hardened race pressed into the hub. A pair of spindle nuts with a lock ring between them sets how tightly those cones are squeezed against the races, and the seal on the back of the hub keeps grease in and water and dust out. That simple layout is why these axles live so long, but it also means the bearings depend on clean grease and the right adjustment. Once water gets past a hardened seal or the nuts back off, the rollers start to pit the races and the wear speeds up quickly under a heavy truck.
Torque King's tech notes point out that Dodge, Ford and GM used the same front wheel bearings and seals across the Dana 50 IFS, Dana 60 and Dana 61 for roughly two decades, even though the spindles and hubs themselves were brand specific. That is why one kit covers so many trucks.
Lift the axle until the tire clears the ground and rock the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock while a helper watches. If the hub moves on the spindle but the knuckle stays still, it is the wheel bearings. If the whole knuckle moves on the axle yoke, the problem is kingpins or ball joints instead; on 1975-1993 kingpin axles our Dana 60 kingpin rebuild kit covers that repair. Spin the tire by hand and feel for roughness, then pull the locking hub and look at the grease. Rust-colored or gritty grease and pitted races mean the whole set should be replaced, not just repacked. A whine that changes with speed but not with steering is usually the differential, which takes a different kit such as the Dana 60 front master overhaul kit.
This kit is listed for Dana 50 and Dana 60 front axles on 1978-1997 Ford, 1978-1988 Chevrolet and GMC, and 1974-1993 Dodge 4x4 trucks, all with manual locking hubs and serviceable tapered wheel bearings. It services one side. It does not fit later front axles that use sealed unit-bearing hub assemblies, such as 1994-up Ram or 1999-up Ford Super Duty. Spindles and hubs changed between makes and years, so if you are unsure, compare your old bearing and race numbers with the new parts, or send us your year and VIN before ordering. You can browse more axle and transmission overhaul parts in our rebuild kits section.
Re-check the adjustment after the first few hundred miles, especially on trucks that tow.
| Fits | Dana 60 and Dana 50 front axles |
| Includes | Inner and outer bearings, inner and outer races, axle seal |
| Coverage | Services one side |
| Weight | 2.52 lb |
No. It services one hub: one inner bearing, one outer bearing, both races and the wheel seal. Order two kits to do both sides of the axle.
No. Those trucks use sealed unit-bearing hub assemblies on the Dana 60. This kit is for the earlier serviceable tapered-bearing hubs with manual locking hubs: 1978-1997 Ford, 1978-1988 Chevrolet and GMC, and 1974-1993 Dodge.
Yes, it is listed for Dana 50 as well as Dana 60 front axles. Ford's Dana 50 IFS used the same front wheel bearings and seals as the Dana 60 on those years.
Use a quality high-temperature wheel bearing grease and pack the bearings completely. Clean out all of the old grease from the hub first so you are not mixing types.
Follow the factory procedure for your truck, which seats the bearings and then backs off to a small amount of end play. Most manuals call for roughly 0.001 to 0.009 in. of end play. Too tight overheats the bearing; too loose lets the hub knock.
No. The kit is bearings, races and the seal. Reuse your nuts, lock ring and washers if they are in good shape, or replace them separately.
