Hammer-grip ratchet floor shifter with cable, console cover and boot for TH350, TH400, 700R4, C4, C6 and A727 three- and four-speed automatics.
If your TH350 or 700R4 car has lost its column linkage in a swap, or the old linkage is so worn that the indicator says Drive while the transmission sits halfway into Neutral, a cable floor shifter is the clean fix. This kit is built in the style of the B&M 80885 Hammer: a hammer-shaped grip with a trigger, a black console with a lit gear indicator, a shift boot, the shift cable, neutral safety and backup light switches, and the brackets and hardware for the transmission end. It is sized for street rods, muscle cars and C10-type trucks running GM, Ford or Chrysler three- and four-speed automatics.
Inside the case, the outside selector lever turns the manual shaft, which swings the inside detent lever and pulls the manual valve through the valve body. Each detent notch lines the manual valve up so one oil circuit is fed cleanly. The shifter's only job is to put that lever exactly on a detent and hold it there. In normal mode this kit works like any detent shifter through P-R-N-D and the low ranges. Squeeze the trigger and it switches to ratchet action, which lets you pull it down one gear at a time without overshooting into Neutral or Reverse. The trigger also acts as the reverse lockout, which is why this style is popular for street/strip cars.
Disconnect the linkage at the transmission and move the selector lever by hand. You should feel a positive click at every position. If the transmission clicks cleanly but your shifter does not land on those clicks, the linkage is the problem and this kit fixes it. If the transmission itself shifts late, harsh or flares on the 3-4 even with the lever set correctly, look at the TV cable first; our 700R4 TV cable and line pressure guide walks through it, and the won't shift into overdrive guide covers the no-4th cases a shifter cannot fix.
Listed coverage is GM TH200, TH250, TH350, TH400, 200-4R, 700R4 and 4L60/4L60E, Ford C4 and C6, and 1966-and-later Chrysler Torqueflite A727 and A904. One shifter covers three- and four-speed units; on the original Hammer design the four-speed GM overdrives (700R4, 200-4R, 4L60) need a stop bolt removed so the gate has four forward positions, and three-speed units keep it. A 4L60E or other electronic unit with a case-mounted range (PRNDL) switch needs a different lever and cable bracket arrangement, so check how your switch and harness read the manual lever before you mount anything. Overdrive Ford units such as the AOD are not on this listing. For more 700R4 parts see our 700R4 collection, and if you want a taller pistol-grip lever for a TH400 build, compare the TH400 pistol-grip ratchet shifter.
If the old linkage leaked at the side of the case, change the selector shaft seal while the lever is off; our selector shaft seal tool with seal does it without dropping the pan. On a 700R4 that has been slipping from a half-engaged range, check fluid condition and refill with Dexron ATF to the dipstick before you judge the shifts.
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Doing this repair right usually means replacing these at the same time. Same transmission, ships together.
Yes, the 700R4, 200-4R and 4L60 are on the listed fitment. On the Hammer design the four-speed GM units need the stop bolt removed so the gate has four forward positions. A 4L60E with a case-mounted range switch needs a lever and bracket that suits that switch, so check it before you install.
No. It is a complete kit built in the style of the B&M 80885 Hammer and intended as a replacement for it. The layout and install steps are the same idea, but it is not B&M branded.
Put the transmission selector lever all the way forward in Park and the shifter in Park, set the cable swivel so it slides freely into the lever, then move both to Low and confirm it still slides in freely. Run through every position before you pin it.
The neutral safety circuit is open. Either the switch on the shifter is not adjusted to close in Park and Neutral, or the factory neutral safety or column interlock wiring was not carried over to the new switch. Fix that before driving.
It can. If the linkage leaves the manual valve between detents, a clutch or band can be underfed and slip in that one range. A shifter set so the lever lands squarely in each detent stops that, but it will not fix slipping caused by worn clutches or low line pressure.
