Adjustable-jaw puller that walks a stuck front pump straight out of the case without cracking the housing or scarring the stator support.
Rebuilding a 4L60E, 700R4, TH350, C6, AOD or 727 on the bench and the front pump will not come out of the case? This is a universal front pump remover of the same clamp-and-forcing-screw design as the Atec Trans-Tool T-0033 and the Kent-Moore J-45053. It grabs the pump by its stator support and jacks it straight up out of the case bore, so you do not have to pry on the pump flange or hammer on the bolt holes.
A front pump is a tight fit in its case bore, and after years of heat cycling and varnish it can feel welded in place even with every bolt out. The tool solves that with two parts. A split clamp closes around the stator support tube that sticks out of the front of the pump, and a bridge over the clamp carries a center forcing screw. When you turn that screw it bears down on the end of the input shaft, and since the input shaft cannot move further into the case, the screw lifts the clamp and the pump with it. The pull is centered on the bore, so the pump comes out square instead of cocking to one side.
The GM factory overhaul procedure for the 4L60-E does it the same way: remove all pump bolts, fit the adapter to the stator support, tighten the remover around it, then turn the T-handle and lift the pump out of the case. The older GM tool numbers for that job were J 37789-A with adapter J 39119; this tool covers the same step without hunting down both pieces.
Check input endplay first while the pump is still bolted in. That reading tells you whether the selective thrust washer needs to change and is much harder to get once the unit is apart. For the 4L60-E, the GM procedure calls for 0.13 to 0.92 mm (0.005 to 0.036 in). Our 4L60E bench rebuild tool list covers the dial indicator setup and the other tools that save time on teardown. Once the pump is out, look at the converter hub bushing and the stator tube bushings; our guide on converter hub and pump bushing wear explains what a worn bushing looks like and why it matters.
This remover is listed for GM 200, 200-4R, 250, 350, 400 (3L80), 700-R4, 4L60, 4L60E and Powerglide, Ford C4, C5, C6, AOD, AODE, 4R70W and E4OD, and Chrysler 727, 904, 998 and 999. These all use a pump with a stator support tube the clamp can grip. It is not meant for units without that layout, and some transverse or late-model designs have their own dedicated pullers. Browse parts for the units you work on most, such as the 4L60E, 700R4 and 727 collections.
After the pump is out, a good set of drivers like our 4L60E/700R4 master bushing driver set handles the pump and stator bushings.
| Type | Adjustable-jaw front pump puller / remover |
| GM fitment | 200, 200-4R, 250, 350, 400 (3L80), 700-R4, 4L60, 4L60E, Powerglide |
| Ford fitment | C4, C5, C6, AOD, AODE, 4R70W, E40D |
| Chrysler fitment | 727, 904, 998, 999 |
| Replaces | Atec Trans-Tool T-0033, Kent-Moore J-45053 |
| Material | Heavy-duty steel |
It is listed for GM 200, 200-4R, 250, 350, 400, 700-R4, 4L60, 4L60E and Powerglide, Ford C4, C5, C6, AOD, AODE, 4R70W and E4OD, and Chrysler 727, 904, 998 and 999. All of these use a front pump with a stator support tube for the clamp to grip.
It is the same clamp, bridge and forcing screw design and is sold as a replacement for those tools. It is not made by either company.
You can, but prying under the flange often gouges the case sealing face or cocks the pump in its bore. Pulling it straight with the forcing screw avoids leaks and damaged pump bodies.
Yes. Measure input endplay with a dial indicator while the pump is still installed. On a 4L60-E, the GM spec is 0.13 to 0.92 mm. It tells you which selective washer to use on reassembly.
It is built to pull the pump. For installation, line the pump up with guide pins or long bolts, seat it evenly and torque the bolts in a crossing pattern.
