Replacement 27-spline slip yoke for the GM 4L60E, 700R4 and TH350 output shaft, sized for a 1350 series U-joint when the driveshaft is upgraded.
A drip of red fluid from the back of the transmission that keeps coming back after a new rear seal, a driveshaft that clunks and shudders on takeoff, or a driveshaft upgrade from the stock 1310 joint to the stronger 1350 joint all lead to the same part: the transmission slip yoke. This is a new yoke for the GM 27-spline output shaft, machined with 1350 series ears. It carries part number 3-3-6081X, crossing to T3-3-6081HP and N3R-3-6081X, and it slides onto the 4L60E, 4L65E, 700R4, 200-4R, TH350 and T375 as well as Muncie, Saginaw and Borg Warner T-5, T-10 and T-56 manual gearboxes that share the same spline.
On a two-wheel-drive 4L60E car or truck the yoke is the front end of the driveshaft. Its splined bore rides on the output shaft, and the long polished barrel sits inside the extension housing bushing with the rear seal sealing against it. As the rear axle moves up and down, the driveshaft length changes and the yoke slides in and out on those splines, which is why it is called a slip yoke. That polished barrel is doing two jobs at once: it keeps the transmission fluid in, and it keeps the back of the output shaft supported in the bushing. When the barrel is pitted, rusted or worn with a groove where the seal lip rides, no seal will hold, and the extra play starts wearing the bushing. On a 4WD 4L60E truck the transmission bolts to a transfer case instead, so this yoke is for two-wheel-drive applications and manual swaps.
With the vehicle supported, grab the driveshaft right behind the transmission and try to lift and rock it. Up-and-down movement there points to a worn extension housing bushing and yoke barrel. Pull the yoke and run a fingernail across the seal surface; if it catches, the yoke is done. Keep in mind that fluid at the back of the case is not always the rear seal, and that a clunk can come from inside the unit. Our 4L60E common problems guide covers the internal failures, and the 4L60E Camaro problems guide is useful for F-body owners chasing driveline noise.
This yoke fits the GM 27-spline output shaft (1.18 in spline OD) and accepts a 1350 series U-joint with a 1.188 in cap diameter and a 3.625 in joint width. Centerline of the ears to the end of the spline is 5.5 in and the hub diameter is 1.5 in. GM used several yokes that look nearly identical, with different barrel lengths and joint series, so measure your old yoke against those numbers or read the number stamped on it before ordering. Spicer recommends a caliper for measuring U-joints, and a 1310 joint will not fit these ears. If your driveshaft still has the factory 1310 joint, you will also need a 1350 joint or a conversion joint at the front of the shaft. Not sure what you have? Send us the year and VIN, or browse the rest of the 4L60E parts collection.
If the leak turned out to be coming from inside the case, or you are rebuilding the unit while the driveshaft is out anyway, the 4L60E master rebuild kit covers the seals and frictions, and 4WD owners replacing the front shaft can use the K1500 front driveshaft.
| Part number | 3-3-6081X (T3-3-6081HP, N3R-3-6081X) |
| U-joint series | 1350 |
| U-joint cap diameter | 1.188 in |
| U-joint width | 3.625 in |
| Centerline to end of spline | 5.5 in |
| Hub diameter | 1.5 in |
| Spline | GM 27-spline output shaft, 1.18 in OD |
| Fits | 4L60E, 4L65E, 700R4, 200-4R, TH350, T375, Muncie M20/M21/M22, Saginaw, BW T-5/T-10/T-56 |
| Weight | 2 lb |
Doing this repair right usually means replacing these at the same time. Same transmission, ships together.
It fits the GM 27-spline output shaft used on the 4L60E, 4L65E, 700R4, 200-4R and TH350 in two-wheel-drive applications. It must also match your driveshaft: this yoke takes a 1350 series U-joint, so a stock 1310 driveshaft needs a 1350 or conversion joint.
Measure the U-joint caps and the distance across the joint. A 1350 joint has a 1.188 in cap diameter and a 3.625 in width. The 1310 joint is smaller in both, so its caps will be loose in 1350 ears.
The seal rides on the yoke barrel. If that surface is grooved, pitted or rusted, the new seal lip cannot seal against it. A worn extension housing bushing also lets the yoke move around and wipes the seal out. Replace the yoke, and the bushing if it is worn.
A new rear seal every time, the extension housing bushing if there is any play, and the front U-joint if it is dry or notchy. If you are converting to 1350, the driveshaft needs a 1350 joint at the transmission end.
Yes. Wipe a light coat of Dexron VI ATF or assembly lube onto the barrel and splines before sliding it in. A dry yoke can roll or cut the seal lip on the first start.
Not at the transmission. On 4WD trucks the 4L60E bolts to a transfer case, and the rear driveshaft connects to the transfer case output instead.
